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Blown In Insulation

Today's building codes mandate a minimum level of insulation in walls and attics. However, many older homes lack adequate insulation. For some homeowners, the solution may lie in blown-in insulation. Blown-in insulation involves tiny materials blown into walls and attics through a long hose. Keep reading to see if this could make your home more comfortable and reduce energy bills.

Blown-in insulation quickly and easily fills the spaces between existing wall studs and ceiling joists. While new construction often uses batt or friction fit insulation, retrofitting existing homes with batts is impractical because all the stud spaces are covered by drywall, paneling, or other types of wall coverings. However blown-in insulation can be added to attics and walls to existing homes to help increase their insulation value and additionally, it can help to limit outside noises by acting as a sound barrier as well. 

However, blown-in wall insulation has drawbacks related to coverage area and aesthetics. Installing blown-in insulation in existing homes usually involves drilling holes near the top of the wall from the exterior side, and blowing the insulation in via a hose. This method while being effective for insulating, can leave noticeable plug spots on the outside of the building. Plugs used may match the color of the stucco or siding, but will likely be visible from the exterior, especially with brick or stucco. When used in wall spaces, obstructions within the wall like exhaust ducts, won't allow for the blown-in insulation to accumulate below, leaving insulation voids in the wall space. Another drawback is that over time, blown-in insulation can settle slightly, reducing its thermal resistance and leaving the upper portion of the wall void of insulation. These issues should be considered prior to deciding which process is best for your home.

Blown-in insulation comes in three main types: loose-fill fiberglass, cellulose, and rock wool. Each has its advantages and disadvantages, and each has its varying thermal values. A higher R-value indicates greater insulating effectiveness. Although not all types of blown-in insulation offer the same thermal value, in most cases, adding any insulation is better than none.

Loose-fill fiberglass

This lightweight insulation is produced from glass heated to a liquid state and then spun into thin fibers. When blown into attics and wall spaces, loose-fill fiberglass provides an average R-2.5 thermal value per inch (a higher number indicates better insulation). Achieving the insulating value of an R-19 batt requires approximately 7.5 inches of loose-fill fiberglass insulation. A standard bag of loose-fill fiberglass covers a 106.6-square-foot area at an R-19 thermal value.


Cellulose

Often favored by environmentally conscious homeowners, cellulose is made from finely shredded recycled cardboard or newspaper. It is the most common type of blown-in insulation and is chemically treated to resist mold and fire. However, cellulose can lose its fluffiness and become soggy and compacted if it gets wet, which reduces its R-value. Cellulose insulation has an average thermal value of R-3.7, so slightly over five inches are needed to match an R-19 batt. A bag of cellulose covers 36.7 square feet with an R-19 thermal value.


Rock wool: Also known as "mineral wool," this type of blown-in insulation is manufactured from blast furnace slag, a byproduct of iron and iron ore smelting. The slag is heated, combined with other minerals, and spun into a material that resembles the texture of sheep's wool. Rock wool insulation has an R-value of R-3.3 per inch, but one bag covers only 60 square feet at an R-19 thermal value. Due to its excellent fire resistance, rock wool is often used in areas subject to fire codes, such as walls connecting a house and an attached garage or the floor between a garage and a finished room over the garage.

Can you DIY blown-in insulation?

Blowing in insulation can look like a fairly simple process, but going in with eyes wide open is a must. We do not recommend the average homeowner attempt a DIY project for blown-in insulation for exterior walls, but If you are able and willing endure a messy and somewhat risky project, it can be done in attics. We recommend you call us at Airdrie Insulation Services at 587-900-0042 to tackle all your insulation needs, as we have the experience, know how and equipment to do the job right, the first time . But if you are considering a DIY attic insulation project, you should consider the following:


Safety

  • You will continually be using ladders, hoses, extension cords, etc. which all pose a risk of falling or tripping. Also, you will be crawling under low, sloping attics trusses, which will be a hazard to head and back injuries. 

You should wear full protective gear including overalls or old long sleeved clothing which can be thrown out, gloves, and respiratory and eye protection should be used as well as the small fibers can penetrate your skin and eyes, and can be inhaled into your lungs.


Manpower

  • You will need a person to load the insulation bags into the hopper on the floor below, while the other blows in the insulation through a long hose.
  • An additional person will be needed on the ladder at the attic hatch level to "feed" the hose to the person at the end of the hose. 


Equipment Needed

  • Suction equipment to remove any old existing insulation.
  • Large industrial-strength bags to collect and dispose of the old insulation. 
  • Blower system to blow in the new insulation
  • Ladders to access the attic
  • Lighting equipment to ensure you can see all the areas you intend to insulate
  • You may also need new"insulation stops" to ensure the air from your soffits can adequately enter the attic. Installing insulation stops in an existing attic can be an arduous, backbreaking job as you are working in a very confined area of the attic. 
  • Two foot by three foot pieces of plywood to use a platforms to stand on while blowing in the insulation


Tips 

  • Carefully follow the instructions on each insulation bag and the blower you have rented. Do not cut corners to save time. 
  • When in the attic, avoid standing directly on the ceiling drywall as you can easily break through and fall to the floor below. However, standing on attic joists can also be hazardous as you are at risk of losing your balance. To prevent injury and damage to the ceiling, we recommend using two pieces of plywood measuring about two by three feet to create a secure standing area. You can stand on one piece while repositioning the other as you work.
  • Electrical boxes and recessed pot lights need to be boxed off to allow for the heat they generate to dissipate. Excessive heat in a recessed pot light can lead to premature bulb burnout and pose a fire risk, particularly with older pot lights. They can become very hot and ignite cellulose insulation (cellulose is fire-resistant but not fireproof). The risk is lower with fiberglass insulation as it has a higher temperature resistance, but it can still melt and ignite when exposed to extreme heat. To address this, construct boxes around each recessed light using plywood, leaving at least a three to four-inch gap between the light and the box. You will need to cut a small notch in the plywood boxes where the electrical wire enters and leaves the light, to allow for the box to fit flush against the ceiling drywall. Also, box out around any electrical junction boxes that may be in the attic to make them easily accessible to electricians in the future.
  • Use battery-operated lights to illuminate dark corners, thereby minimizing the use of extension cords, which are always a trip hazard. Modern LED headlamps work well for directing bright light into attic corners, but if you don't have one, we recommend using a type of high-illumination lighting to ensure coverage in all areas.


Properly installed blown-in insulation can last a long time, ranging from 20 years to the lifetime of a house, depending on factors like installation quality, water damage, and settling. However, as you can see, it is an extensive process, and using an experienced trained team to ensure the best outcome is highly recommended. We encourage you to call Airdrie Insulation Services to ensure your insulation is installed quickly, and correctly, and to save you from the headache of a failed FYI project.

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